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Italian Classics – The Series – Sunday Gravy

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    Italian Classics – The Series – Sunday Gravy

    Nearly every Sunday after Mass in Italian-American homes, someone (often times the Nonna) always has a pot of Sunday Gravy slow simmering on the stove to feed the family. Simply put, Sunday Gravy is taking a large pot of some sort of tomato-based sauce and combining it with a variety of meats while letting it simmer for hours on end.

    So why is it called a gravy and not necessarily a sauce? One has to look at the definition of both words to understand the difference. In Italian a sauce, called a salsa, is made from something other than meat and is combined with or accompanies meat in a dish. The word for gravy, or sugo, is a sauce that is generally made by using the rendered fat and juices by cooking with meat. It’s like making a gravy from the pan dripping after a turkey roast on Thanksgiving Day.

    So, the combining of the meat and the tomato-based sauce makes for a rich ragu that really transcends its individual parts. The secret behind this Sugo is in the low and slow simmering preparation. Its origins are said to go back further than even the introduction of tomatoes from the New World and is believed to be a slow simmered beef stew. The dish is traditionally served on Sundays as I’ve said and is combined with a pasta as a side dish or second course.

    What’s so unique about Sunday Gravy is that its not so much a dish as it is a tradition. It’s reminiscent of the entire family, or even the entire village, coming together for a communal meal. Often times it took days of preparation depending on the types and quantities of meats used. In the recipe below, I actually prepared the meat and did the browning over a live fire grill on a Saturday then cooked the actual gravy on Sunday.

    Of course, Sunday Gravy is also one of those dishes that has morphed into different types with a variety of ingredients. I’m sure if you got all the Nonnas together and asked each their recipe you would never find two exactly the same.

    So, for Easter Sunday, Troutman and family made and consumed this Italian tradition. What’s also great about this is the left overs seem to on for days with each successive helping better than the last. If you’ve never had Sunday Gravy you’re missing out not only on a great classic Italian dish, but also a tradition that harkens back to great family gatherings on a huge table under a giant oak tree. So crack open a bottle of wine and start that tradition in your family soon !! Mangia !!


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    Sunday Gravy (Sugo)

    Course. Lunch or Dinner.
    Cuisine. Italian-American
    Makes. 6 to 8 servings
    Takes. 60 minutes prep, 3-4 total hours cooking time

    Ingredients - Sauce


    16 ounces Penne Rigate pasta
    4 - Italian sausages (mild, hot or mixed)
    2 – pork loin chops
    4 – Italian style meatballs
    2 – beef bricoles (*recipe below*)
    2- 28 - ounce cans whole tomatoes (like San Marzano’s)
    2 tablespoons tomato paste
    3 anchovy filets
    1 medium onion chopped
    6-8 garlic cloves finely chopped
    1/2 cup grated Pecorino Romano cheese
    1 teaspoon Italian seasoning
    1 teaspoon dried oregano
    1-2 teaspoons Kosher salt
    1 teaspoon black pepper
    1/2 cup chopped fresh basil leaves
    1/4 cup chopped flat leaf parsley
    1/4 cup white wine
    Olive oil for sauté

    Ingredients – Bricoles

    2 – thin cutlets beef top round (about 1/2 pound each)
    4 – thin slices Prosciutto di Parma
    4 – slices mozzarella cheese
    4 - ounces feta cheese
    2 – ounces pine nuts
    1/8 cup chopped flat leaf parsley
    Salt & pepper seasoning
    Butchers twine to tie the roulades


    Directions – Meat Prep & Bricoles

    Bricoles are roulades of thin sliced beef top round made by rolling with a variety of ingredients, tying them up with twine and cooking them either in this stew or by themselves as a main course.

    To make them, begin by placing the cutlets on a layer of plastic wrap and cover with another layer. Pound them thin, about 1/8” until uniform. Next lay each cutlet flat, season them both with salt and pepper. Place two slices of the Prosciutto on each one followed by two slices each of the mozzarella. Sprinkle on top of that the feta, pine nuts and parsley.

    Carefully roll up each cutlet and tie with two or three lengths of twine. Season the outsides of each roulade and set aside.

    For this recipe it’s assumed you’ve made the meatballs. Take those, the pork chops and the sausages and give them a good seasoning.

    Fire up your outdoor grill or brown off each piece of meat in a pan to achieve some nice caramelization. All the meat will be slow braised in the sauce so the degree of doneness isn’t as important as developing some flavor, or in the case of outdoor grilling, some smokiness as well.

    Meat before and after grilling over Post Oak

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    Directions – Gravy

    Either mash the whole canned tomatoes by hand in a bowl or pulse them a few times in a blender until chunky. Avoid tuning them into a liquid. Set them aside.

    In a large sauce pan begin by adding three counts of olive oil and sauté the anchovy filets until they dissolve in and flavor the oil. This step is optional but gives an amazing umami under note to the sauce, you won’t even know its there. Once dissolved add the chopped onion and continue to sweat them for 4-5 minutes until soft.

    Next add the chopped garlic. Continue to sauté until the garlic releases its fragrance then add the tomato paste. Continue stirring until the paste takes on a little color and is combined with the onion/garlic pieces. Add salt and pepper seasoning to the blend.

    Deglaze the well-cooked mixture with the white wine scrapping and dissolving any fond that’s built up at the bottom of the pot. Continue cooking until well blended and somewhat reduced, about 3-4 additional minutes. Next add you tomatoes, Italian seasoning and oregano giving it a good stir. Reduce the heat and allow the sauce to achieve a slow bubbling boil. Stir frequently to avoid burning on the bottom.


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    After the sauce is sufficiently heated, add half of the chopped basil and parsley and stir well. Next add in all of the meat, submerge and completely cover each piece within the sauce. Cover the pot, reduce the heat to a simmer and continue to cook for 2-3 hours. Give the what will soon become "gravy" a stir every 30 minutes or so to again avoid any burning. As the meat begins to render its fat and juices, your gravy will become thinner and enriched. Check to see if you need any additional salt at this point.

    After the third hour your meat will be fully braised with some beginning to fall apart. The gravy will once again benefit from the pieces of meat breaking off and turning it into a rich ragu. Remove the larger pieces of meat to a separate platter. Add the Romano cheese and the rest of the chopped parsley and basil giving it one last final stir.

    Return the meat to the gravy and continue to simmer for about 30 minutes more for a final finish. During this time prepare your pasta and cook until al dente. Drain the pasta and empty it into a large fry pan or another pot. Ladle about 2-3 cups of the gravy over the pasta and combine over medium heat until the pasta absorbs the gravy.

    For final presentation empty the sauced pasta unto a large serving platter. To the side of the pasta place all of the various pieces of meat for individual serving. Ladle the remaining gravy over the top of the meat and sprinkle some cheese and a little parsley over the whole serving. Allow your family and guests to help themselves to this rich and fabulous dish.


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    Once again, this dish is something I recommend you try, it will not disappoint. Serve this for large gatherings with a crusty loaf of bread, a fresh spring salad and a nice bottle of Chianti. I truly believe if you make this dish, it will become a family tradition and truly be Nonna approved !!!

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    Mangia !! Buon Appetito !!! Trout is Out !!


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    #2
    I guess I need to cancel the Rockdale trip and stay home to make this awesome looking recipe.

    Comment


    • CaptainMike
      CaptainMike commented
      Editing a comment
      Dang, I would have been flying in tomorrow

    #3
    Love it!! And where did you get a picture of Mrs. Colombini? She was my dad's best friend's mom and she would pay dad and her son Don when they were boys a penny for each robin they would shoot out in the vineyard. She would then make her ravioli out of the bird meat. Apologies for anyone that might be offended by this, but back home back then the Italians would call robins dago quail and they would harvest them often. She also had the most wonderful Italian accent and mixed both Italian and English in her conversation. Fantastic people and I miss them all so dearly.

    Comment


    #4
    Oh Man! Another winner!!

    Comment


      #5
      Glad you discussed the beauty of tomato based sauces improving in flavor with each reheating..............a marvelous culinary miracle

      Comment


      • smokin fool
        smokin fool commented
        Editing a comment
        So true....2nd, 3rd, 4th times are still a charm.

      #6
      Well done, TM!

      Comment


        #7
        ....yup....another recipe for the pastafarians among us....
        I can feel my butt getting wider as I type.

        Comment


          #8
          Sunday gravy is awesome. Great recipe too. Bravo for the BracioIe . I don't make gravy very often because it's only the wife and I but when I do, I like to toss in one of those small rolled and tied pork butts.

          I think the first time I ever heard of Sunday Gravy was in the mid 90's when there was a show on the network that we don't speak of called Ruggerio to Go with David Ruggerio. Tried it and was hooked.

          Thanks for reminding me that I need to make this again.

          Comment


          • Troutman
            Troutman commented
            Editing a comment
            I remember Ruggerio 👍

          #9
          Troutman Hopefully, you can hear the loud applause in the background!. Molto bene!

          Comment


            #10
            Made something similar a few years back, a Ragu Napoletana. The great thing about Italy, is that there really is no Italy. It’s 20-40 nation states that decided to speak Florentine Italian (mostly) and salute the tricolor flag. So, the same dish concept is made in different places (shared culture), but called something completely different based on the various versions of Italian that existed before everyone started speaking Florentine.
            a lot of American Italians come from the southern half of the country, really from two or three regions. And they came before the unification of the language. So, a Soprano goes back to the old country and asks for some gabbagool, and no butcher under 80 knows what he means, because it’s capicola in the modern Italian.
            I love that country and I love your posts about its food, Troutman

            Comment


              #11
              Looks amazing and definitely something I wan t to try sometime.

              One question: Is Feta traditional in the recipe?

              Comment


              • Troutman
                Troutman commented
                Editing a comment
                No, Feta was in my fridge, more Greek than Italian.

              #12
              Man I have to try that exact recipe. Thanks for that.
              When I was growing up my father had an obsession with the Sunday gravy from his friend's restaurant. He had my mother repeatedly try to duplicate the recipe for about 15 years. She came very close but just couldn't nail it. There were probably hundreds of ingredient combinations tried. Then one day about 20 years later I accidentally discovered the missing ingredient was simply carbon created by very long simmering of the gravy, as one might do in a restaurant and not something one might think of in a home kitchen. So I learnt that even with the correct ingredients and measurements, technique can make or kill a recipe.
              As a side, always use San Morzano DOP tomatoes in any dish requiring tomatoes. The Mount Vesuvius volcanic soil adds a wonderful mineral mid taste to these tomatoes that will instantly make your recipe pop with wonderful complexity.

              Comment


              • Potkettleblack
                Potkettleblack commented
                Editing a comment
                They also balance the sugar to maintain a standard brix across crops, which removes a variable and keeps each can of San Marzano tomatoes consistent from year to year, and make them good for restaurants (particularly pizzerias) to use for sauces.

              • Potkettleblack
                Potkettleblack commented
                Editing a comment
                As an add on, always add some alcohol to tomato based dishes, as the tomato contains some flavor chemicals that are only activated by alcohol. That's why vodka sauce develops that brilliant flavor and why a lot of sunday gravy/ragu recipes have some wine.

              • Troutman
                Troutman commented
                Editing a comment
                I exclusively use Central Market San Marzanos that are DOP certified (place of origin in Italy for the uninitiated) and as PKB states, I always use wine as a deglaze and as a flavor enhancer. Also note the use of anchovy as a background umami flavor ingredient.

              #13
              Love the series! Should we expect chicken carbonara to make an appearance?!

              Comment


              • Troutman
                Troutman commented
                Editing a comment
                We shall see

              #14
              This reminds me of my grandmother cooking 🤗

              Comment


                #15
                I am already gaining my weight back just looking at how good it looks....Wow!

                Comment

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