For those who have followed any of my cooking series, you know I like to take a deep dive into a culture’s cuisine, recipes, and historical background. Louisiana cooking has been so engrained into my cooking repertoire that it’s time I share some of my experiences that prompted this series. Encouraged by some of the recent offering by Panhead John and several others who continue to cook such well known classics such as gumbo, jambalaya and shrimp etouffee, I wanted to take a deeper dive and present some of the recipes that aren’t quite as mainstream. Louisiana cooking is as varied and classic as any cuisine on earth but is also real and rustic appealing to the down-home cooking style that almost everyone enjoys.
I won’t go into the long history of the sub-regional cuisines of Cajun (or Acadian) country, Creole (largely based in and around New Orleans), Upland and a few others. Many of you have a good idea of the nuances each has to offer. That said many of the dishes have crossed over and become synonymous with several styles that seemingly meld together into the rich tapestry that is Louisiana cooking.
Louisiana itself as a region of the country, is naturally blessed with a variety of wild game, abundant seafood and a rich agricultural heritage that have given its generations of residents the defining dishes the make it so unique. Known as the Sportsman’s Paradise, the indigenous peoples, those European such as French, Spanish and Italian, as well as African-Caribbean peoples, have all left their indelible mark on its cuisine borne out of that abundance of locally available resources.
Over the years, after having lived and often visiting the state, I began to follow several of the chefs whose cook books and television series have inspired me to learn many of the dishes I’ll present in this series. From Justin Wilson to Paul Prudhomme, from the Great Chefs of New Orleans series to Emeril Lagasse; each one has shared many of their tricks, techniques, nuances and ingredients that help define this wonderful Louisiana cuisine.
So, after that brief introduction, for my first offering I present a popular coastal dish called Seafood Courtbouillon. As you will soon see, this is a perfect example of a dish that was originally Creole with a heavy French influence, to one morphing into something straight out of the Atchafalaya Basin with it’s gumbo like base. There are both classical and combination style examples, the one I present here is the latter inspired by an Emeril Lagasse recipe.
The word Courtbouillon (pronounced coo-bee-yon) is rather interesting as well. It not only describes the cooking method but refers to the dish itself. Originally the term is of course French in origin whereby the method, originally called court bouillon or “short broth”, is a means of poaching a protein like seafood quickly in a rich and complex stock. Generally, the stock is then discarded once the protein is cooked. The stock itself consisted of water, salt, some form of acidulating ingredient like wine or lemon juice and a mirepoix of vegetable aromatics.
Of course, in Creole and Cajun cuisines the recipe continued to evolve and what was once a discarded broth then became a rather rich and slightly thickened soup to be served with its poached protein. Creoles added tomatoes for further acidity and flavor while the Cajun influence starts by thickening with a blond peanut butter roux. Of course, the base in both cases adds the aromatic trinity of onion, bell pepper and celery to the mix. Thus, the use of salt, fat, acid and heat makes this a unique and delicious example of a Louisiana cooking classic.
Seafood Courtbouillon
Course. Lunch or Dinner.
Cuisine. Louisiana Creole-Cajun
Makes. 4-6 servings
Takes. 60 minutes prep, 70 minutes cooking time
Ingredients
1/2 cup avocado oil
1 cup AP flour
2 stalks celery chopped
1 small onion chopped
1 green bell pepper chopped
4-5 cloves garlic finely chopped
1-pound fresh fish filets (redfish, snapper, or cod)
1-pound Gulf shrimp peeled and deveined
4-5 cups seafood stock (hint: make your own shrimp stock from the shells)
1-14 ounce can diced tomatoes (Muir Glenn)
2 tbls tomato paste
1/2 cup dry white wine like Sauvignon Blanc
1-2 small bay leaves
2 tbls Worcestershire sauce
3 tbls Tony C’s or other creole seasoning
1 tsp sugar
1 tsp cracked black pepper
4 tbls unsalted butter
2 cups cooked white rice for service
Directions
Fire up your grill or smoker. Set the temperature at about 350-375*F for a hot smoke environment.
Meanwhile, to a large enameled cast iron vessel (or similar cooking pot), add the avocado oil and flour over a medium high heat. When combined, reduce the heat to medium and continually stir until the roux takes on a peanut butter color, or about 15 minutes. This is not a gumbo so don’t take it any further than that.
Add the celery, bell pepper and onion immediately to the hot roux. Stir to soften, season with about a third of the Tony C’s and some coarse ground pepper. Continue cooking for about 3-4 minutes. Next, add the garlic stirring for about another minute until fragrant.
In a small bowl combine the wine and tomato paste stirring into a slurry. Add that to the pot, stir to combine and cook for another 1-2 minutes. Add the seafood stock, stirring until thoroughly combined. Next add the can of tomatoes, the sugar, the Worcestershire and remaining seasoning. Bring to a boil then reduce to a simmer stirring occasionally for about 25 minutes. Once cooked down, the sauce should be relatively thickened. Turn off the fire, whisk in the butter and stir until dissolved. Set the pot aside and allow to cool a bit while you prepare the seafood.
Take the fish and cut it into small one-inch chunks. After seasoning those and the shrimp, set them on a rack and place them in your smoker. Throw a couple of chunks of fruitwood on the hot coals and smoke one side for about 5 minutes. Baste with a little melted butter and olive oil. Flip and continue cooking for another 4-5 minutes. The seafood should not be finished cooking at this point, probably temp’d at no more than about 105-110*F. Basically this allows for a light kiss of smoke to begin the cooking process. Do not overcook, we’ll finish the cooking in the poaching liquid, overcooking causes the shrimp to turn rubbery. Remove from the cooker.
Re-heat the poaching sauce with medium heat until it begins to bubble. Add the seafood and simmer for about another 5 minutes to finish the cooking process. To some soup bowls add a half a cup or so of the white rice and ladle in the seafood and sauce. Serve with some French or homemade cornbread. Enjoy!
Enjoy Louisiana Real and Rustic cooking, you will fall in love with it. In the words of the late Justin Wilson, “J’vous garantis” or “I gar-roon-tee!”
I won’t go into the long history of the sub-regional cuisines of Cajun (or Acadian) country, Creole (largely based in and around New Orleans), Upland and a few others. Many of you have a good idea of the nuances each has to offer. That said many of the dishes have crossed over and become synonymous with several styles that seemingly meld together into the rich tapestry that is Louisiana cooking.
Louisiana itself as a region of the country, is naturally blessed with a variety of wild game, abundant seafood and a rich agricultural heritage that have given its generations of residents the defining dishes the make it so unique. Known as the Sportsman’s Paradise, the indigenous peoples, those European such as French, Spanish and Italian, as well as African-Caribbean peoples, have all left their indelible mark on its cuisine borne out of that abundance of locally available resources.
Over the years, after having lived and often visiting the state, I began to follow several of the chefs whose cook books and television series have inspired me to learn many of the dishes I’ll present in this series. From Justin Wilson to Paul Prudhomme, from the Great Chefs of New Orleans series to Emeril Lagasse; each one has shared many of their tricks, techniques, nuances and ingredients that help define this wonderful Louisiana cuisine.
So, after that brief introduction, for my first offering I present a popular coastal dish called Seafood Courtbouillon. As you will soon see, this is a perfect example of a dish that was originally Creole with a heavy French influence, to one morphing into something straight out of the Atchafalaya Basin with it’s gumbo like base. There are both classical and combination style examples, the one I present here is the latter inspired by an Emeril Lagasse recipe.
The word Courtbouillon (pronounced coo-bee-yon) is rather interesting as well. It not only describes the cooking method but refers to the dish itself. Originally the term is of course French in origin whereby the method, originally called court bouillon or “short broth”, is a means of poaching a protein like seafood quickly in a rich and complex stock. Generally, the stock is then discarded once the protein is cooked. The stock itself consisted of water, salt, some form of acidulating ingredient like wine or lemon juice and a mirepoix of vegetable aromatics.
Of course, in Creole and Cajun cuisines the recipe continued to evolve and what was once a discarded broth then became a rather rich and slightly thickened soup to be served with its poached protein. Creoles added tomatoes for further acidity and flavor while the Cajun influence starts by thickening with a blond peanut butter roux. Of course, the base in both cases adds the aromatic trinity of onion, bell pepper and celery to the mix. Thus, the use of salt, fat, acid and heat makes this a unique and delicious example of a Louisiana cooking classic.
Seafood Courtbouillon
Course. Lunch or Dinner.
Cuisine. Louisiana Creole-Cajun
Makes. 4-6 servings
Takes. 60 minutes prep, 70 minutes cooking time
Ingredients
1/2 cup avocado oil
1 cup AP flour
2 stalks celery chopped
1 small onion chopped
1 green bell pepper chopped
4-5 cloves garlic finely chopped
1-pound fresh fish filets (redfish, snapper, or cod)
1-pound Gulf shrimp peeled and deveined
4-5 cups seafood stock (hint: make your own shrimp stock from the shells)
1-14 ounce can diced tomatoes (Muir Glenn)
2 tbls tomato paste
1/2 cup dry white wine like Sauvignon Blanc
1-2 small bay leaves
2 tbls Worcestershire sauce
3 tbls Tony C’s or other creole seasoning
1 tsp sugar
1 tsp cracked black pepper
4 tbls unsalted butter
2 cups cooked white rice for service
Directions
Fire up your grill or smoker. Set the temperature at about 350-375*F for a hot smoke environment.
Meanwhile, to a large enameled cast iron vessel (or similar cooking pot), add the avocado oil and flour over a medium high heat. When combined, reduce the heat to medium and continually stir until the roux takes on a peanut butter color, or about 15 minutes. This is not a gumbo so don’t take it any further than that.
Add the celery, bell pepper and onion immediately to the hot roux. Stir to soften, season with about a third of the Tony C’s and some coarse ground pepper. Continue cooking for about 3-4 minutes. Next, add the garlic stirring for about another minute until fragrant.
In a small bowl combine the wine and tomato paste stirring into a slurry. Add that to the pot, stir to combine and cook for another 1-2 minutes. Add the seafood stock, stirring until thoroughly combined. Next add the can of tomatoes, the sugar, the Worcestershire and remaining seasoning. Bring to a boil then reduce to a simmer stirring occasionally for about 25 minutes. Once cooked down, the sauce should be relatively thickened. Turn off the fire, whisk in the butter and stir until dissolved. Set the pot aside and allow to cool a bit while you prepare the seafood.
Take the fish and cut it into small one-inch chunks. After seasoning those and the shrimp, set them on a rack and place them in your smoker. Throw a couple of chunks of fruitwood on the hot coals and smoke one side for about 5 minutes. Baste with a little melted butter and olive oil. Flip and continue cooking for another 4-5 minutes. The seafood should not be finished cooking at this point, probably temp’d at no more than about 105-110*F. Basically this allows for a light kiss of smoke to begin the cooking process. Do not overcook, we’ll finish the cooking in the poaching liquid, overcooking causes the shrimp to turn rubbery. Remove from the cooker.
Re-heat the poaching sauce with medium heat until it begins to bubble. Add the seafood and simmer for about another 5 minutes to finish the cooking process. To some soup bowls add a half a cup or so of the white rice and ladle in the seafood and sauce. Serve with some French or homemade cornbread. Enjoy!
Enjoy Louisiana Real and Rustic cooking, you will fall in love with it. In the words of the late Justin Wilson, “J’vous garantis” or “I gar-roon-tee!”
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