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Drilling the Garage Sale Performer for Probes

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    Drilling the Garage Sale Performer for Probes

    I wanted to do some burgers toning but realized I hadn't ported the new used kettle for cables. Thought I'd grab a quick vid:


    https://vimeo.com/134139647#t=0s

    Sorry Not sure why it wont embed.
    Last edited by Jon Solberg; July 22, 2015, 04:57 AM.

    #2
    Sweet vid and avatar.

    I like the magnet idea.

    Why do digital read outs go in and out while you are trying to take a picture?

    Comment


    • Jerod Broussard
      Jerod Broussard commented
      Editing a comment
      @Jon Solberg

      I was taking a picture of the digital readout on my Aubur fan system. After couple of seconds the numbers start blinking in and out taking turns showing up on the camera

    • DeusDingo
      DeusDingo commented
      Editing a comment
      pulse width modulation - most "lit" displays have a brightness that is controlled not by actually dimming the light but turning it on-off at a rate that it looks like it is dim. if you take the picture or the refresh rate lines up with the modulation rate it looks like it is off or really bright.

    • Jerod Broussard
      Jerod Broussard commented
      Editing a comment
      @DeusDingo

      Thanks....pretty funny to see that with the camera and not with your eyes

    #3
    I just bought a Weber Premium that still needs assembly. Should I attempt to drill some holes for DOT cables or can I safely run them under the lid? If I have to drill, is there a preferred spot on the side and what are the "chipping the porcelain" percentages?

    Comment


      #4
      You can run the cables under the lid if you like. I just drill holes so my lid isn't sitting on the cables. The air gap created there is bigger than the drilled holes.

      You can put the holes where ever you like. I drill between the food great and the top rim of the base. Normally at the 3:00 position as to how I look at the grills.

      The position you drill kind of takes that out as a charcoal area. You don't want your cables running over the hot coal. It least I don't.

      The porcelain won't chip if:

      you DO NOT use a center punch to start the hole


      you USE a small pilot bit and start slow.

      Comment


      • CurlingDog
        CurlingDog commented
        Editing a comment
        exactly, Jon. couldn't have said it better.

      #5
      Thanks for the tip. So do you look at the grill like this? The kettle handles @ 9 o'clock and 3 o'clock, ash pan handle in the front facing you? What size pilot hole and final hole? I may have 2 cables in at times e.g. meat and ambient grill probes. I will purchase new bits in those sizes, so if there is a preferable type/brand I'll get the right ones. Also, drill from inside or outside? Inside seems like it would exert less stress on the surface. I really appreciate the help.

      Comment


        #6
        Hi Munch

        I had no issues with a center punch on my Weber OTS, but mebbe I was lucky. I did place a block of wood on the inside to prevent any metal "punch out" when the bit runs through the kettle. Pilot holes are essential!

        Below is info from a previous post of mine. I really don't mess with placing the grommets that much, tho. I have found (tips from this site) that black binder clamps do a great job of cutting down leaking kettles!

        Hi Burn,

        I use these as someone else here recommended them. McMaster-Carr High-Temp Grommets item # 1061T11. You get 25 for $6.14 - www.mcmaster.com

        I split them (recommended by same person) and work them around the cable so I don't have to push the probe through them. A little bit of a pain to fit into the grill, but they work very well. Easy to lose, though (due to the split) if you are pulling cables out and not paying attention.

        Panel hole diameter of 1/4 and panel thickness of 1/16 is perfect for Weber Kettle & Maverick Probes. I used a steel punch to make an indent, then drilled 1/8 hole as pilot, and finished with 1/4. Hold a block of wood where you are drilling so you don't get sharp edges in the metal when the bit goes through.

        Drilled 1 hole about 2 inches above the lower grate and 1 hole about 2 inches above the upper grate. I use 1/4 inch hex bolt with washers / wing nut to close off any hole I'm not using.

        Highly recommend 6 foot probes if you can get them for the 732. I have a 733.

        HTH,

        --Ed

        Comment


        • Munch
          Munch commented
          Editing a comment
          I have a Thermoworks DOT, but the cables are probably similar.

        #7
        Munch

        For the video I used a 7/64 bit pilot and a 15/64 main for the big hole. An 1/8 and a 1/4 will work fine. I just had these bits laying around.

        I use mavericks and the probes pass easily thru this size. They are also covers with braided stainless steel so they dont need much protection.

        I wouldn't worry to much about the brand of bit. Any cheap drill bit will do.

        You can drill from the outside or the inside. When I drill stand alone kettles I tend to drill from the outside in so I dont drill myself : 0

        I always drill two holes. One for each probe.

        This is easy breezy man.
        Last edited by Jon Solberg; July 24, 2015, 07:15 PM.

        Comment


          #8
          Munch, be sure your main hole is big enough for the widest part of the DOT probe to pass thru. : )

          Comment


          • Munch
            Munch commented
            Editing a comment
            I measured the probe diameter by passing it through the drill bit holder in the bit case I have. 13/32 seems to be the size that allows the probe to pass freely. I will try a cook or two to see if temps are hard to hit or hold, then drill if need be.
            Last edited by Munch; July 26, 2015, 08:14 PM.

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