I was taking a picture of the digital readout on my Aubur fan system. After couple of seconds the numbers start blinking in and out taking turns showing up on the camera
pulse width modulation - most "lit" displays have a brightness that is controlled not by actually dimming the light but turning it on-off at a rate that it looks like it is dim. if you take the picture or the refresh rate lines up with the modulation rate it looks like it is off or really bright.
I just bought a Weber Premium that still needs assembly. Should I attempt to drill some holes for DOT cables or can I safely run them under the lid? If I have to drill, is there a preferred spot on the side and what are the "chipping the porcelain" percentages?
You can run the cables under the lid if you like. I just drill holes so my lid isn't sitting on the cables. The air gap created there is bigger than the drilled holes.
You can put the holes where ever you like. I drill between the food great and the top rim of the base. Normally at the 3:00 position as to how I look at the grills.
The position you drill kind of takes that out as a charcoal area. You don't want your cables running over the hot coal. It least I don't.
Thanks for the tip. So do you look at the grill like this? The kettle handles @ 9 o'clock and 3 o'clock, ash pan handle in the front facing you? What size pilot hole and final hole? I may have 2 cables in at times e.g. meat and ambient grill probes. I will purchase new bits in those sizes, so if there is a preferable type/brand I'll get the right ones. Also, drill from inside or outside? Inside seems like it would exert less stress on the surface. I really appreciate the help.
I had no issues with a center punch on my Weber OTS, but mebbe I was lucky. I did place a block of wood on the inside to prevent any metal "punch out" when the bit runs through the kettle. Pilot holes are essential!
Below is info from a previous post of mine. I really don't mess with placing the grommets that much, tho. I have found (tips from this site) that black binder clamps do a great job of cutting down leaking kettles!
Hi Burn,
I use these as someone else here recommended them. McMaster-Carr High-Temp Grommets item # 1061T11. You get 25 for $6.14 - www.mcmaster.com
I split them (recommended by same person) and work them around the cable so I don't have to push the probe through them. A little bit of a pain to fit into the grill, but they work very well. Easy to lose, though (due to the split) if you are pulling cables out and not paying attention.
Panel hole diameter of 1/4 and panel thickness of 1/16 is perfect for Weber Kettle & Maverick Probes. I used a steel punch to make an indent, then drilled 1/8 hole as pilot, and finished with 1/4. Hold a block of wood where you are drilling so you don't get sharp edges in the metal when the bit goes through.
Drilled 1 hole about 2 inches above the lower grate and 1 hole about 2 inches above the upper grate. I use 1/4 inch hex bolt with washers / wing nut to close off any hole I'm not using.
Highly recommend 6 foot probes if you can get them for the 732. I have a 733.
I measured the probe diameter by passing it through the drill bit holder in the bit case I have. 13/32 seems to be the size that allows the probe to pass freely. I will try a cook or two to see if temps are hard to hit or hold, then drill if need be.
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