Sharpening steel

[Oak Smoke]

I’ve been interested in Panhead John post on his new knife sharpener. I didn’t want to high jack his post so I thought I’d ask my question in a new post. Do you use a sharpening steel? I bought a Victorinox steel last year. I’ve watched several YouTube videos on using one but I’m still not sure I’m doing it right. The way I test a knife for sharpness is I put it against a thumb nail at about a 60 degree angle. If it sticks and won’t move it’s sharp if it will slide at all it needs help. The steel seems to straighten the edge back out and make the knife stick when it wouldn’t before. My son was a butcher at Whole Foods for several years. He claimed if he used his steel regularly that his knives rarely needed sharpening.

[Steve B]

I do. All the time.
I have this one:

https://noblehomeandchef.com/product/honing-rods-black-ceramic/

It was recommended by a professional knife sharpener. From what I remember he said a traditional steel honing rod is about 1000 grit. Whereas the this ceramic one has 2 grits. The coarser one (with the ribs) is 2k and the smooth edge is about 3k. I’ve been very happy with it so far and I’ve had it for about 2 years now.

[texastweeter]

My crock sticks are ceramic.

[Kevin Fuess]

I went to the above link and everything I selected was out of stock?

[Steve B]

Kevin Fuess That's a bummer. I searched Amazon and didn't see them there either

[dpearce]

I do, at times. Mainly use it for putting a proper edge on my cabinet scrapers, but also for sharpening scissors. I've done several knives with it, as well as a machete (as a test).

The trick is to have a moderate amount of pressure, don't press hard, you're just looking at burnishing the edge to create a burr. So angle it slightly higher than the actual blade your working on. Take a couple of passes, (for knives it's easier to draw the blade across the steel than drawing the steel over the blade) then using your finger or thumb, rubbing down to the cutting edge from the opposite side. You should feel a slight burr on that side, and you want it to be consistent down the length (DO NOT run your finger down the blade edge!). Then repeat the same procedure but on the opposite side of the cutting edge. You're trying to get rid of the burr you created on the first pass, and slightly burnish the opposite side, nothing more.

For scissors (I know you didn't ask this), just pretend it's a piece of paper, and act like you're cutting it with the scissors. Flip the scissors over a couple times back and forth. Rinse, wash, repeat until sharp again.

Edit: Mine is an actual steel, not ceramic or diamond coated, etc... I really don't know if those other materials would be ok with scissors.

Edit:Edit: Ok, last thing. If you've got a big knife, and you don't feel comfortable using it two handed, like in the case of the machete I sharpened, use a vise. Any old vice will do, but I recommend gluing some leather scraps to the vice faces. That'll keep your knife from getting beat up. Just be careful and don't let your hand slip.

[dpearce]

Ok, one last thing I probably should've put in the first post I made:

If you're using the steel regularly, like your son did, you more than likely won't even feel a burr. Just do both sides, and stick it back in the drawer/knife holder.

[texastweeter]

This

[ecowper]

My Edge Pro Apex sharpening gear came with a ceramic honing rod, which is what I use. As Steve B says, the steel is a more aggressive grit than the ceramic rods. All you really want to do with the honing rod is re-align the knife's metal to get a good burr again. you want your angle on the rod to be close to the angle it is sharpened at (15 or 20 degrees for Japanese or German knives, generally). If your rod has a hand guard this is usually a good guide to get to that angle, or close.

This guide from Made In is pretty good for how to use a honing rod.

[Sweaty Paul]

I have a ceramic sharpening steel as that was recommended by manufacturers of a couple of my carbon steel knives. I have taken to running all my knives on the steel for a few passes before use and after washing and drying before storage. I do think that helps them to keep the edge a bit longer.

[briano52]

QUOTE=Sweaty Paul;n1826254]I have a ceramic sharpening steel as that was recommended by manufacturers of a couple of my carbon steel knives. I have taken to running all my knives on the steel for a few passes before use and after washing and drying before storage. I do think that helps them to keep the edge a bit longer. [/QUOTE]

I am a bit pf a knife aficionado. I take great pride in keeping all my knives razor sharp. That includes kitchen knives and my collection of pocket/outdoor knives. For culinary knives, the honing steel, of actual steel or in ceramic, is very important to keep knives sharp and avoid having to use a stone or grit to take off metal in resharpening. It is true that if you use a honing rod, it will not often be necessary to resharpen.

I use the honing rod before and after every use of a kitchen knife. If you do it every time, it takes 20-30 seconds and maintains (straightens) the edge. If you are not comfortable using a honing rod, there is an easier to master alternative. See F. Dick Rapid Steel Action Set — Sharpening Supplies
This rapid steel is available in two grits. The black one is good for most knives, and the white one is good for very delicate Japan thin edge knives. These devices are very easy to use and work very well in everyday edge maintenance. If you use the rapid steel every time you use your knife, it will keep the edge sharp and only take 15 seconds. This device replaces a honing rod.

[bbqLuv]

That is the one I have a use almost daily. It really works.

[texastweeter]

Use mine religiously hit it 6 times a side after washing before they go in the block and 6 times when they come out before use. I keep a set of crock stick type in my field skinning kit ad use it often as I gut, skin, and quarter/field process large game or fish. It really helps them go longer between sharpening. To sharpen, I use a ken onion edition work sharp.

[WI Bubba]

I use a honing rod every time I pull a knife out of the block, and depending on how much cutting I'm doing, mid job as well. It won't sharpen a dull knife but it will help maintain the edge of a sharp one. The "mouse trap" devices like briano52 posted are very well reviewed. They are supposed to be faster and a lot easier to use that a traditional rod. No matter which style or material you use, you have to start with a sharp knife and use the the hone to maintain the edge between sharpening's.

[briano52]

Yes, honing, is very important to keep the edge straight and sharp. It will not sharpen a knife that has gone dull, but it will make the sharpening last a whole lot longer. I mostly use a rod, but I also pick up my Rapidsteel once in a while. If you are not comfortable using a rod, the Rapidsteel will work too. Both tools are quick and easy.

[Starsky]

I use one on a regular basis

[Richard Chrz]

After prepping and cooking alongside a friend who is a chef and a butcher. He used his steel religiously, after chatting with him a bit, I use mine now all the time.

Although I don’t think he truly used it as a “sharpener” he seemed to lean more to the side of realigning the edge of the blade after last use.

He had me run my finger up and down the side of his blade, you could feel where there were little areas of it not feeling as smooth and maybe straight as other places in the blade. He then ran his knife on the steel, and had me feel it, the blade edge was perfectly razor straight again,

So for him, his knife was always really sharp, he made sure of it, his steel was just for daily maintenance, and truing. But he used it often.

I have learned to use mine every time I use knives.,

[briano52]

Yes, your chef buddy got it quite right. The few strokes on the honing rod will maintain your knife and keep you from having to sharpen it with metal removal for a long time.

[Richard Chrz]

briano52 I’m glad you separated honing, maintaining from sharpening, as sharpening to me truly means taking off the damaged edge and building a new one. To me it is honing if you did not take the last edge off completely,

[Mosca]

I use a ceramic rod. My main knives are Globals, and that is what is recommended. The Zwillings and Henkels can use either a steel or ceramic rod.

Years ago I was taught to hold the knife and the rod at a 90° angle to each other, heel of the knife at the top of the rod, at about a 15-20° angle depending on the knife*, and move the knife downward while also drawing it away, as if I were trying to shave slices out of the rod. So I do 5 to 7 passes on one side, then I switch hands, rod and knife, and do the other side. I work deliberately and methodically, I don’t bother with the fancy up/down swicky-swacky stuff like you see in videos. I just want knives that cut.

I hone whenever it feels like I need to. If I made a mirepoix or trinity etc, that could be the next day; if all I’ve done is cut tomatoes and peppers for sandwiches and omelets, it might be once a week. The knife lets me know.

*I’m pretty sure even German knives are 15° now. It’s a marketing thing, like BTUs for gas grills or megapixels for cameras, consumers equate blade angle with quality.

[briano52]

Traditionally, German knives are 18 to 20 degree edges. In the last 5-7 years some of the major German makers are offering 15 degree edges in their higher end product lines. This is a good thing in my opinion as I like the super sharpness you get with a 15 degree edge. But, the thinner edges are more delicate and need careful handling. Not a problem at all once you become used to it.

If you are using a thin 15 degree edge, honing is very important to avoid sharpening and losing metal.

[Midway]

I'm still not sure I am using a Honing Rod correctly. I couldn't get the video link above to play but I have watched a video on the Amazon Link I purchased my Honing Rod from and it helps. (Dalstrong Honing Rod - 10 inch - Gladiator Series Elite - HC Stainless Steel - G10 Garolite Handle).

I receive my fourth Dalstrong knife today and am done, really, this is the last one I will buy .

DALSTRONG Butcher Knife - 10 inch - Shogun Series ELITE - Japanese AUS-10V Super Steel - G10 Handle Cimitar Breaking Knife (The blade is hand sharpened to between 8-10 degrees per side).

This latest knife suggests an 8 to 10 degree edge per side and all the others 8 to 12 degree edge per side. That is too steep for my Ken Onion and I now wish I would have bought the Edge Pro knife sharpener instead as they have models that go to 10 degrees and even one that can do 8 degrees.

I think I will just send them in to Dalstrong for sharpening when needed.

The other recent purchases: Chef Knife - 8” Blade, Boning Knife - 8 inch, Paring Knife - 3.5 inch, all Dalstrong Shogun Series ELITE - Damascus - AUS-10V Japanese Super Steel.