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Kettle mounting help

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    Kettle mounting help

    Click image for larger version  Name:	2A5CD91B-730E-4C56-93FF-D93633F0BCB6.jpeg Views:	0 Size:	547.1 KB ID:	869435Click image for larger version  Name:	65FFAD6F-C86A-4E9E-9F9A-4BAAFD90F5C6.jpeg Views:	0 Size:	3.33 MB ID:	869434 I am looking for something to help me mount my 22” Weber Kettle in a hole I haven’t cut yet in the HardieBacker I’m going to top my cabinet with then top the HardieBacker with stainless.

    I would like the hole to support the kettle and I’m looking for something that will maybe prevent water from running into the cabinet between the kettle and the table top.

    Here is a photo of the outdoor cooking center I’ve built. (I haven’t got the stainless steel top yet)

    Here is something I’ve sketched up for what I am thinking about. I’d like to line the hole with something that the kettle rests on / in.

    Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated

    Thanks

    Steve
    Last edited by ssandy_561; June 25, 2020, 12:27 PM.

    #2
    In this video Baby-back Maniac puts a 3 legged red kettle on his performer, he needed the bracket that the performer bowl uses to attach to the frame. He list the place that makes such a thing in the video. https://www.bing.com/videos/search?q...tail&FORM=VIRE

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    • ssandy_561
      ssandy_561 commented
      Editing a comment
      Thanks for the link. That probably wont work for me. I looking for something to line the hole I cut with so no water would run between the kettle and the hole in the stainless/HardieBacker.

      I am hoping there is something out there where I can use the actual hole I cut to hold the kettle.

      Maybe I am SOL and my plan will not work.

    #3
    If your goal is to have a full circle contact between the kettle and the table top, I do not have any good ideas on how to do that, and think an air gap would be safer, with a bracket like HawkerXP refers to. I think an air gap, as the cement backer board may not be thick enough to prevent the stainless top from flexing under the weight of a fully loaded kettle. And if you have wood under it at that end, like at the other end, then that wood might be awfully close to the surface of a hot kettle. I've used the backer board on top of 3/4" plywood before, to do a tile counter top that was substantial.

    This is what I would use:

    https://www.amazon.com/BBQ-Weber-Ket...a-899036422551

    That, with the hinge, since you won't be able to use a lid bail to hold your lid, would be nice.

    You might could use the brackets, and just seal with high temp RTV, but that would show against the stainless...

    I assume the goal is to have it water proof, so no rain or other water goes down between the kettle and table top, and into the body of the cabinet?

    Comment


      #4
      How about this - just cut the hole smaller than the size of the kettle - let's say 18 to 20 inches, perfect circle,
      so that the kettle can nestle down in the hole with 2-3 inches exposed all around above the top of the table, and line the hole with some adhesive Nomex high temp gasket, which should let the kettle nestle in there real tight without shifting around. Now, if you feel it IS shifting, what you do is drill holes on maybe 3 spots just BELOW the bottom of the table top, and go in with some stainless bolts from inside the kettle, with a nut and the body of the bolt BELOW the table top, sorta wedging it in from below, so that it cannot rock around or come back out.

      By using large fender washers and two nuts, you can adjust where these "under table clamps" are and how tightly they press against the bottom of the backer board.

      This is a rough sketch of what I mean...

      Click image for larger version  Name:	kettle mount.jpg Views:	0 Size:	713.3 KB ID:	869534

      Now, if you do this, and cut a nice circle, you could probably line the hold with high temp RTV before setting the kettle in there, and when the RTV cures, it may be all you need to hold the kettle, but my jury rigged idea of a bolt might add some extra stability. You just need the bolts right below the food grate I think.

      Jim
      Last edited by jfmorris; June 25, 2020, 03:40 PM.

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