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Texas' Barbecue Schism - From The New Yorker

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    Texas' Barbecue Schism - From The New Yorker

    Meathead asked me to post this...

    "As the state becomes more urban, so does its barbecue. So why does a small-town family feud feel so important?"

    By Rachel Monroe
    February 22, 2025​



    Article link: https://apple.news/AZJOAERaCRw2-tCYyat_xAw

    #2
    Accumulated grease, well I'm well on the way to fame and fortune then

    Comment


      #3
      I saw this on Apple News the other day but couldn’t get the article with the paywall. Anyone else read it?

      Comment


      • SheilaAnn
        SheilaAnn commented
        Editing a comment
        Not me…..

      #4
      Steve ran a thread a few days ago: New Yorker on Texas BBQ - Pitmaster Club
      There's a tip on how to get past the paywall in there.

      Comment


        #5
        Sid P and I ate at Black’s Original’s San Marcos location; it was genuinely awful. Watching the teenage girl cut the brisket was like watching her slicing a block of clay. And the ribs were mediocre. It was so bad that, after eating ribs, brisket, and sides, I suggested to Sid that we continue to a different spot for more ‘Q! San Marcos BBQ was much better. Black’s Original wouldn’t be good BBQ even here in Pennsylvania.

        Terry Black’s is absolutely excellent. It’s a big ol’ BBQ machine that feels completely down home. Uncle Bob and l like to talk about turning the art of making great food into the art of selling great food for a profit; the places I’ve been to in Texas seem to address that by limiting days and hours of operation, and availability of product, and exercising strict personal control over the pits. Terry Black’s has addressed it by scaling completely the other way, open 7 days a week from mid mornings to late evenings, and expanding to now 5 locations.

        In the end, between the two Black’s, food quality talks and tradition walks. My mantra is that the food either tastes good or it doesn’t, and how it got there doesn’t matter. If yours isn’t as good, go look at what the other guy is doing, and change! Authenticity doesn’t guarantee quality, and progress and business sense doesn’t kill it.

        Comment


          #6
          It would be really cool if the guy that wrote the article actually ate meat....

          "I don’t eat meat, so I recently took an acquaintance with an educated palate"

          Comment


          • Mosca
            Mosca commented
            Editing a comment
            At first I thought the same. But she is writing about the business side, not the food side; and the guy she took with her, Clayton Cook, is the manager of Leroy & Lewis, ranked #5 in the Texas Monthly Top 50. Since she defers food comments to him, I’m okay with the credibility on the business side.

          #7
          TL;DR: The author is a vegetarian who had to rely on a third party taster. "Craft BBQ" is spreading as Texas urbanizes. Some a$$hats are trying to charge $40/lb for brisket. Aaron Franklin did stuff. At least one BBQ reviewer thinks that it's a golden age of BBQ, but old school pitmasters resent the implication that they aren't craftspeople who pay careful attention to the quality of their product. Bad blood in the Black family caused a split in the business. Grandma won't go to Terry Black's.

          I think I got the main points.

          Comment


            #8
            To follow up what I just wrote, I just finished reading an article in Texas Monthly that addresses the issue of authenticity in Mexican food. José R. Ralat ends his essay, “Instead of focusing on authenticity, let’s ask the most important culinary question there is: How does it taste?​”

            Comment

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