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  • ClayJones
    commented on 's reply
    So, I did all of this at my cookout this past weekend (smaller, cleaner fire and using cherry wood) and made the best ribs I have so far! I got a number of "these are the best I've ever had" comments which are always nice

    Thanks again gang!

  • EdF
    commented on 's reply
    Well, basically it's tuning the triangle, I guess: heat, air, fuel. Here's a simple version: https://kbq.us/fire-triangle/

    And here's the long version: http://www.genuineideas.com/Assets/i...%20Blonder.pdf

  • ClayJones
    commented on 's reply
    Trying this out Friday on some dry-aged ribeyes I picked up yesterday, and then on a few St. Louis racks on Saturday. Big weekend. Will post pics if they come out alright! (Will slink away like nothing happened if they don't.)

  • PaynTrain
    commented on 's reply
    Will do Huskee. Not this weekend, i will be in Cincinnati, but the next!! Will have 8 pork bellies to smoke, and moving them around a little less would be awesome!

  • Kevin Fuess
    commented on 's reply
    And then there's the temperature controllers like Digi-Q that control the temp by the amount of air that is pumped into the fire box. This thread is mind boggling!

  • EdF
    replied
    OK, so I've got the KBQ, which more or less takes care of the airflow with its fans. But I also have a BGE, and find that a different kind of beast in terms of fire management. It always seemed that small airflow was what was needed to manage temps. Still had to get it to the point where smoke hits the right quality. So last year I got a smobot. It controls the temps by adjusting the top vent. And it is virtually the same as doing it manually. So, I'm not sure what to say. I guess there's a convection effect going on in a kamado, that leads to a different approach.

    Leave a comment:


  • EdF
    commented on 's reply
    Ahumadora, you are a great source of information!

  • ClayJones
    commented on 's reply
    Yes thanks for that! I've been here reading through it. Humidity is one thing I have no clue about. Is there a way to gauge the humidity in your smoker, short of buying some sort of detector? I think its usually humid in mine naturally because I see condensation, but I really have no idea.

  • ClayJones
    commented on 's reply
    Thank's y'all! I've been building fires far too big. Heating logs up in the firebox would have been tricky using my newb technique... but building smaller fires is exactly what I'm working on as per the advice above in the thread so I think I can make this work!

    Give it a lot of air
    Regulate temp by limiting fuel
    Smaller splits
    Get em hot and ready to burn

    It's nice having so many mentors

  • Huskee
    commented on 's reply
    Lol! Yeah, give the exhaust-wide-open a try. Hard to say the exact dynamics having the vertical chamber which I obviously don't have. But I suspect it'll even things out better. Report back!

  • PaynTrain
    replied
    Huskee - Mind blowing. I have cooked in the Yoder Durango by intake only forever! I am noticing a 125 degree difference between right cook chamber temp, and the vertical chamber temp. Do you think I should crack the exhaust damper to get a more even spread? I never even thought to touch it (though it makes sense, as I cook in the BGE by top damper only, and rarely don't have the bottom wide open).

    On the wood side, I use the miter saw and chop about 6" split sections, and add maybe 2 or 3 chunks an hour in a long cook.

    Good go, just when I thought I was on level ground!!!

    Leave a comment:


  • Troutman
    replied
    This is a very good thread. But it mainly addresses cooking in large offset cookers. For most of us backyard warriors; however, the physics are still the same. Take a WSM smoker. I have mine (along with a lot of others here) rigged up with a temperature controller and fan. The fire is regulated by passing air over the charcoal thus igniting combustion then shutting down when a certain temperature is read at the top of the smoker. Thus air movement becomes the first variable, which is certainly key to keeping the fire burning clean.

    After that it becomes the size of the fire itself. We've had numerous posts where folks complain that they can't control the temps on their WSM, either can't get them hot enough or can't seem to cool them down. I would say that 90% of the time it's not so much about the venting and air flow but the size of the fire. A 22" WSM can hold nearly an entire bag of charcoal, which lit will produce a 500* fire in a WSM in a matter of minutes. That's why, especially for low and slow, we use the minion method or the snake method so that the fire SIZE remains relatively small BUT with air management gets as intense as it needs to in order to produce a clean fire.

    I'm going to side with those that control the second variable, which is controlling the size of the fire instead of worrying as much about air flow management. That's actually my 3 cents worth, 2 cents ended at paragraph #2.

    Leave a comment:


  • Troutman
    commented on 's reply
    Thanks for resurrecting that, I hadn't seen that in quite a while. Also notice what he says about humidity. I have been a spritzing, water pan advocate, others, per a recent post, think its a waste of time. Blonder would seem to side with a more humid environment.

  • Henrik
    commented on 's reply
    Good point Ahumadora, I forgot. I also split the logs in 2 or 3 smaller pieces. That really helps.

  • Henrik
    commented on 's reply
    That's what I do to. I put a bunch of logs on top of the firebox. I then always keep 3-4 inside the firebox, but away from the fire. (I have a large firebox). That way they get pre-heated in 2 steps before hitting the fire.

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Meat-Up in Memphis

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