No drilling/cutting installation on Weber 22" One Touch Gold?

[cstefan]

I just got my slow-n-sear for my kettle. I'm finding I have to fiddle with the vents constantly to keep the pit at the right temperature.

I'd like to get an automatic thermostatic controller but the array of choices is confusing. What are the pros/cons of the various brands/models out there?

Desired features are: 2 channels and logging of pit and meat temperature.

I also would like a no drilling/cutting mount of the air intake. Does anyone offer such a thing? How well do they work? Can I use them with any brand of controller?

[Jerod Broussard]

You drilling.

Don't sweat it. Mine has a blower hole, a probe(s) hole, and about to have more temporary holes in order to install my lid hinge.

[Jerod Broussard]

They make hole bits. They have a standard bit for a pilot bit. Google it. Nothing major. I ain't the most handy either. cstefan

[Steve B]

Aww come on Jerod Broussard I've seen some of your mods. If not handy then definitely ingenues.
Don't sell yourself short, you short little fella. Hehe

[Jerod Broussard]

Steve B I never felt short walking on the cat-walk in a cattle pen.

[RonB]

How often are you changing the vent settings? Are you having large swings in temps? Or are you running mostly hot or cold? How close are you trying to maintain your temp?

It takes a while for temps to stabilize once you change a setting. Make small changes in the top vent and wait for a while. You may not have the correct amount of coals lit if it stays either too hot or cold. Keeping the temps between 225* and 275* will work for most cooks.

As far as drilling your kettle, I think most, if not all, controllers need a way to mount the fan to the kettle, so a hole is necessary. I have made a bunch of mods to my kettle without problem, but the decision is yours.

[cstefan]

So far I've been having problems with running hot. I suspect part of the problem is air leaks. I'm thinking I need binder clips and perhaps a gasket.

I'm hoping somebody has something that mounts to the bottom vents on the Weber. I guess I'm just jealous of the Kamodo owners.

[RonB]

If your lid is not level, or out of round, you can try to fix it. Find a flat surface and see if there are any gaps. If there are, you may be able to level the lid by pressing down firmly on the lid. Then put a piece of paper under the lid and scribe the outline. Then rotate the lid to see if the outline moves. You can bear hug the wide area and try to bring it back into round.

[Pirate Scott]

Give it some time, I was gonna throw money at my temp issues too but was able to figure it out. Now I run 250 ish steady and no worries. I have a 26.75 Kettle, I use 4 binder clips for the lid. I set my bottom vent at 50%, top wide open use a fuse of KBB 3 wide on the bottom 2 on the top 40 starters. I was using 3top 3 bottom, but it ran too hot and I had to keep choking it down. You mention the slow n sear, did you try less fuel? If you do go with a controller, you may want to find someone more comfortable with modification to help you drill the holes. It is not hard but you will need some tools.

[cstefan]

Rounding/truing the lid, using binder clips, and adding a gasket all are fairly low cost/effort things I should do anyway.

I'll give those a try before throwing money at the problem.

[binarypaladin]

+1 to the binder clips. (Although I drilled a hole in mine.) They really make a difference on dealing with leakage and temp stability over time.

[LA Pork Butt]

cstefan i've cookes on my son's 26" a number of times and as Pirate Scott noted the fuse method is a great way to run low and slow temps.

[cstefan]

Well after doing some research it appears at least the PitmasterIQ and possibly other controllers with a bowl type adapter can be mounted in one of the one touch slits after removing the ash catching hardware. Heat resistant tape is used to close off the two remaining slits in the bottom. There is also the Weber adapter offered by BBQ Guru which will fit in the top vent holes.

However I'm now thinking I should get over my fear of drilling holes in my kettle and at least put in some ports for temperature probes. If I do get a controller adding a port is by far the cleanest mounting method.

[RonB]

If you use the bottom vents and add tape, you lose the use of the bottom vents for other cooks.

[cstefan]

I think the idea is to take the tape off and the adapter off and replace the ash catching hardware if you are doing a cook where you don't want to use the controller.

Again that said putting a port in is a better and less fiddly option.

[Polarbear777]

The advantage of not blowing through the lower vents is two fold.
1. You can easily clean out ash using the one touch sweeepers in mid- cook (cover or move the food so ash doesn't land on it )

2 You won't have to clean out ash if at all because with the forced air coming in above the bottom there is lots of room for ash before it can pile up enough to interfere with airflow. ( mount hole goes just under the charcoal grate clear of the ash sweepers)

3. Bonus. You can have everything open and the blower running for ignition or to switch to searing at the end.

A hole saw makes this this fairly easy and if you chip the paint a little you still get to use the aluminum tape they give you :-)

[Danjohnston949]

Polarbear777, I think You clearly and concisely covered the Rational of Drilling a Hole below the charcoal grate and between the Max travel of the Ash Sweep Right & Left! I used a Pilot Drill Bit to start and then a Harbor Freight Step Bit to Enlarge it!
From a Backyard Cremator in Fargo ND, Dan

[ken g]

I was hung up on drilling. Then I said to heck with it and drilled for my PartyQ and temp probes. Best thing I could have done. Smoking 3 racks of ribs today. Sitting at 230 rock solid for hours. Can pull the top off to add water, remove food, check status and don't have to mess with the probes. This way I can use it to seamlessly grill or smoke. It is air tight and temp control is excellent. Just do it.